I was in Halifax for really only two days, but it made a lasting impression on me. I guess I have a thing about North America’s older cities — just like Boston, the older architecture and less rigid street layout appealed. There also seems to be an abundance of good eating in Halifax, dotted along the waterside and through the relatively historic centre, as well as some interesting museums. (The best part was that I was in Halifax with my parents: sad to leave my friends, but eager to eat out on the bank of mum and dad.)
Things to see:
- The Halifax Citadel. This is the military fortress atop Citadel Hill dating back to 1749, restored to its Victorian appearance. Men dressed up as the 78th Highland Regiment, stationed there in the 19th century, wander around in full kilted uniform, and shoot off an impressively loud cannon every day at noon. You can peer in through various rooms and learn about the history of the fortress and Halifax’s role in different military endeavours. An array of interesting old weapons and artefacts are also on display.
- The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. If you’re even mildly interested in the Titanic or the 1919 Halifax Explosion, this museum is quite fascinating. Halifax was the nearest available city to deal with the wreck of the Titanic, as well as all the bodies, and there’s an abundance of relics and poignant stories to wander and read through for quite some time. I think I found the information on the Halifax Explosion the most interesting, especially the detail about a woman who was blown several kilometres away and lived to tell the tale. Most people know very little, if at all, about the Halifax Explosion, so I think it’s definitely worth a visit.
- The Canadian Museum of Immigration. This building on Pier 21 was the site where ocean liners deposited immigrants looking to enter Canada between 1928 and 1971, and where they were screened before being sent on to their final destination. Entry includes a tour taking you through the experience of being one of these immigrants, which was given to us by a very knowledgeable and pleasant man, and which was a thoroughly enjoyable window into the process. The museum is pleasingly laid out, with detailed settings having been recreated, such as a bedroom upon a ship and the train on which people would travel for several days to reach their new homes. The exhibits are full to the brim with interesting old personal objects and snapshots of the past, and had us peering around with interest for a long time. The other side of the hall has exhibits on the broader history of immigration into Canada, painting a solid picture of Canada’s timeline and the different peoples that came to settle there.
- (I will say that I felt it should have really addressed the complexities of indigenous existence and land claims a little bit more, as sometimes you felt the Canada therein described was simply a fabulous empty piece of land ready to welcome people fleeing unfortunate circumstances with a better life. It was of course never that simple, and my awareness of this threw a little shadow over the exhibit. Yet, that’s perhaps the fault of grander flaws in Canada’s attitudes to the First Nations than that which can be pinned on one museum. I nonetheless thought it a fabulously interesting place to visit.)
- The Alexander Keith brewery tour. Alas, this is something I confess I did not actually manage to fit in, but I have been reliably informed by a friend that it is well worth it. I did myself peer in at the brewery, which has been there since 1820, and is situated in an interesting old building complete with bizarre painted wooden figure of Alexander Keith holding a beer. The tour apparently offers a valuable insight into the heritage of Halifax, along with the sampling of multiple beers and even a ceilidh.
Places to eat:
- The Bicycle Thief. A little Italian restaurant situated along the waterfront and offering exceptional food. We sat outside in the sunshine and enjoyed ourselves very much, watching the water and the people walking past. My parents had the panzanella salad and the lobster roll, while I had the orecchiette primavera, which was lovely and fresh. Points for the very posh crisps they gave us to snack on while the table was made ready, and the focaccia and hummus brought as an amuse bouche. My mum was also blown away by their lemon chiffon tart.
- The Stubborn Goat. We went here for brunch, which — as well as being delicious — offered an interesting array of options on top of touched-up classics. Although the dark wood pub interior meant eating breakfast there felt at first a little odd, the place had a nice feel. I ate the green eggs and ham (avocado, bacon, poached eggs, and jalopeño salsa, pictured above), while my dad had the bacon steak and my mum the banoffee french toast. Satisfaction all round.
- 2 Doors Down. Again, very good food. Another dark wood interior, but not an issue as we ate dinner here and I rather like the look in the evenings. My dad was unimpressed with their asparagus and cheese croquettes (which, I will agree, tasted of nothing but potato), but my “kale, caeser!” salad was tremendous — the double smoked bacon really makes a difference. For my main I had their spring greens risotto which is HONESTLY in my top-two risottos of all time: so incredibly flavourful. Their rhubarb cheesecake was also a winner.
- Norbert’s Good Food & Selwood Green Farm. This is a little café to the side of the Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market (which is also definitely worth a visit), which offers a delightful menu filled with seasonal produce. I went there for breakfast, and had their gouda omelette stuffed with bacon and seasonal vegetables, served with salad and brown toast. It was lovely, and homely, and good. I was really intrigued by the whole menu, but sadly didn’t have an opportunity to try anything else. (Am feeling especially haunted by the idea of their portobello burger — damn!)
If I didn’t know how cold and miserable Canadian winters get, and if my heart didn’t belong well and truly to England, I rather think I could live in Halifax. It had a nice feel to it, and I do like the style of clapboard housing. It’s surrounded, as well, by stunning landscape. It sent a little thrill to my heart, as the aeroplane ducked under the clouds upon my initial arrival, to see the miles and miles of vast, seemingly untouched forest and lake which appear to dominate Nova Scotia. Still very, very early in the morning, the day had been thick and grey, so that as I pressed my face against the cool plane window I felt like a spectator looking out at the wild.
It was this same thick forest than we then drove through, at the end of our time in Halifax, on our way to Prince Edward Island.
sylva 